The Mthatha designer telling African stories without the clichés
Xolela Madlanga builds her patterns from lines and shapes. She is one of 15 creatives chosen from 700 for a French-backed incubator.
Mthatha — Xolela Madlanga does not draw the Africa that tourists expect. The 33-year-old designer from Mthatha, in South Africa's Eastern Cape, works in abstract shapes and lines, and has been chosen as one of 15 creatives from 700 applicants for the 2026 Création Africa incubator, Daily Maverick reports.
The seven-month programme is run by the French Institute of South Africa.
"You can pick shapes and lines and all sorts of imagery to portray a story or invoke emotion," Madlanga said.
Where the patterns come from
She learned pattern-making in Grade 9 and started a label, Xolela M, in 2016. In 2022 she founded Emotives Africa.
Her influences include Ndebele art, the Johannesburg skyline and the landscape around Mthatha.
On scarves, ceramics and cushions
Her patterns appear on garments, ceramics and cushions. She has worked with the Nigerian brand Alia Bare and with the South African brands House of Sebo and Tsikane African Decor.
In 2024 she released a scarf collection called "I Am" with Fabric Bank: 12 designs, each honouring an influential woman.
Emotives Africa was also a finalist this year in the Fashionomics Africa accelerator. Madlanga plans more collections and more collaborations with South African fashion, interior and shoe designers.
This report is based on reporting by Daily Maverick.
